The Routeburn Trek Begins

I catch the bus to the Routeburn Trek, there is only one other passenger on it.  His name is Ken and he is from Japan but has been working in Auckland as a waiter for the past 8 months.  Mervin has opted to rest his knee a few more days and focus on the Milford Trek instead of joining me now.  

The driver is a friendly chatty guy and we speak of comparisons between the US and New Zealand, of how the people in Queenstown have disdain for Auckland because they are nowhere near as productive in terms of GDP as the people of the south island who are a fraction of the number and much less pollutive and consumptive, and of 3 meter tall Moas that were hunted to extinction and eagles once so large that the Maori speak of children being snatched away by them.  He tells me that the only mammal native to New Zealand is a tiny bat that is rarely seen, everything else has been introduced and in many situations are now threatening the endemic wildlife, especially the bird population.  Looking at the incredible amount of roadkill along the lake I surmise that the animals introduced sure agreed with New Zealand, they have really propagated in numbers.  I am slightly horrified that he is intentionally driving over the dead possums, hedgehogs and rabbits.  He drives well and fast but I a little fearful that the bus will skid off a dead possum into the lake as we take our sharp turns.  He senses my unease and he tells me that he is doing the falcons and hawks a favor by tenderizing the meat and flattening it out.  

I learn that the sheep are from Spain and I ask him if there are any wild sheep.  He replies there are none but for an exception - Shrek the sheep who gained fame after being found by a farmer with 7 years worth of wool growth from living in the wild.  By then Shrek is massive because of his unkept fur and there is a charity fundraising event to shear the sheep that is hugely successful.  Since then Shrek has risen to international fame touring and raising millions over the years from around the world effectively making it the first ever celebrity sheep. 

The bus turns onto an off-road track and we bounce our way for several minutes until we arrive in a peaceful glade nestled among the hills.  The only structure here is a clean building with a notice board, benches and toilets.  At the start of the trail there is a spray bottle and brush to prevent the spread of Didymo.  Before starting the trek, I make careful adjustments to my pack to ensure minimal strain on my back.  I feel optimistic knowing that a properly fitted backpack can benefit the spine more than not having a pack on at all.  I take in the sweet scent of the air, snap some pictures of the outrageously clear blue river then start walking.

the start of the Routeburn